Beauty and the Bowl - Ozoni (Japanese Mochi Soup)

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Ozoni, a traditional Japanese New Year's dish, is as simple and complex as a haiku.

One of the things I love about Japanese food is the presentation. After preparing this beautiful Ozoni soup at my Japanese cooking class last week, I wondered if I would ever go to the trouble of making it at home. If I did, I think I would be way too needy. I'd need to hear gushing about the delicacy of the broth, the beauty of the carrot flower, the symbolism of the hexagon shaped daikon, and that cute little knot hand tied in the pink fish cake. And, of course, the essential mochi (missing from the photo above) would have to be praised.

And if guests didn't voluntarily start gushing, I think I would gently point out these things to them. "Did you see that little knot in the fish cake? I tied that myself. And ya' know those carrots don't grow in flower shapes by themselves." So obnoxious.

This is a soup that should be admired and then savored slowly because the cook went to a lot of effort to make it so beautiful and to imbue it with symbolism.

Special cutters are used to make the flower shapes.


This is how the spinach looks before it is cut into 2" lengths for the soup.

Ozoni

1/2 lb. chicken (deboned leg or breast)
6" length daikon (white radish)
1/2 bunch spinach
1 medium carrot
1 cake kamaboko (fish cake)
4 cups dashi (see previous post for recipe)
3/4 tsp. salt
1/2 tsp. soy sauce
mochi

- Slice the chicken on the diagonal into thin pieces and sprinkle with salt. Blanch in lightly salted water until whitish . Drain.

- Pare lengths of radish into hexagonal shape and then cut into slices about 1/4" thick. Parboil in lightly salted water until alost tender, about 10 minutes. Drain. (Hexagons make up the tortoiseshell pattern. The tortoise is the symbol of longevity.)

- Steam the spinach. (I will have to add more details later about how to get it into the shape shown in the photo above.)

- Peel the carrot and cut into 1/4" rounds. Cut into flower shapes. Parboil in lightly salted water until almost tender, about 10 minutes.

- Slice the fish cake into 1/4" half rounds.
- Bring the dashi just to a boil in a pot. Turn down heat and keep at simmer. Then stir in salt and soy sauce and season to taste.

- Arrange spinach, single carrot slice, single daikon slice, chicken, mochi and fish cake in soup bowl. Ladle hot broth into bowl. Garnish with sprig of mizuna.

I may not recreate this at home, but I promise: if someone serves this to me, I will be the most appreciative, gushing guest in the dining room.

(This recipes was submitted to Blazing Hot Wok's monthly regional recipe roundup. The Japanese event is being hosted by Wandering Chopsticks.)

I'm Turning Japanese - Onishime Vegetables

Onishime Vegetables - a Japanese New Year's tradition makes a great side dish any time of year.

My mother was born and raised in Tokyo. My grandfather (who I never met) was the chef/owner of four Tokyo restaurants. How is it that I never learned to cook Japanese food?

The answer is simple. My father, stationed in Tokyo during the American Occupation of Japan, married my mother and whisked her from sophisticated city life to a simple life in Catfish Hollow, West Virginia. There she found Uncle Ben's Converted Rice, but no short grain rice; Ritz Crackers, but no rice crackers; dill weed, but no sea weed. The closest we came to any Asian food was Kikkoman's chow mein. (Come to think of it, the pre-packaged stuff was considered so precious that my mother horded it all to herself.)

But thanks to Hitomi, the instructor at the monthly cooking class at the Pasadena Buddhist Church, I'm learning the ropes of Japanese cooking. Most of the students are second (nisei) and third (sansei) generation Japanese Americans, who had abandoned tradition for convenience. Hitomi is contemptuous of processed foods and lazy shortcuts, such as using instant dashi powder instead of homemade dashi stock. The instant version is the equivalent of chicken boullion cubes in place of homemade chicken stock. That's a no-no in any language.

This simple dashi stock is the base for dozens of traditional Japanese foods, from miso soup to yosenabe (fish stew) to Onishime vegetables.

DASHI STOCK
(Recipe from Hitomi)

1 ½ oz. kelp (konbu), 20-inch length
2 qts. water
3 T. loose bonito flakes (2oz.)

- Moisten a clean cloth and wring well. Carefully but thoroughly wipe the surface of the kelp. Kelp should never be washed since flavor is lost in the process. - Place the cold water and kelp in a soup pot and leave about 30 minutes. Slowly bring to a boil over medium-low to medium heat. Regulate the heat so the water takes approximately 10 minutes to reach a boil.

- When fine bubbles begin to appear at the edges of the pot, remove the kelp from pot. (Do not allow the water to boil while kelp is in the pot.)

- Add ⅓-½ cup cold water. Add the bonito flakes.

- When the stock returns to a boil, remove it from the heat. When the bonito flakes sink to the bottom , strain to clarify. Do not wring the flakes.

ONISHIME

These vegetables are typically served for Japanese New Year's celebrations, but don't wait until then. The vegetables' rich, deep flavors, imparted from the dashi stock, soy sauce and mirin, are oishii any time of year.

Carrots
1 3/4 lb. carrots
1 1/2 cups dashi
4 T. sugar
2 T. mirin
1 T. soy sauce
1 tsp. salt

- Peel the carrots and cut into 1/2 inch long rounds.
- Cook in dashi about 4 to 5 minutes.
- Stir in sugar, mirin, soy sauce and salt.
- Turn down heat, keep at a simmer until almost tender.
(This same recipe can be used for shiitake mushrooms.)

I will definitely make these Onishime-style shiitake mushrooms at home because the preparation is simple and the outcome spectacular.

Gobo
1 3/4 lb. gobo (burdock root)
3 cups dashi
5 T sugar
2 T mirin
/3 C soy sauce

- Scrape and julienne gobo. Keep in cold water to avoid discoloration.
- Parboil about 10 minutes.
- Place parboiled gobo into a pot with dashi, sugar, mirin and soy sauce into a pot.
- Bring to a boil ovr high heat.
- Cover with a drop lid (otoshi-buta) and simmer until reduced by approximately 30%.

The drop lid is made from a circle of parchment with ventilation holes on top.

Renkon (Lotus Root)
1 lb. lotus root
2 cups dashi
1 1/2 T sugar
1 1/2 T mirin
2 1/2 T soy sauce

- Peel the renkon and cut into 1/3 inch pieces.
- Parboil renkon for about 3 minutes.
- Put renkon and dashi into a pot and cook about 5 minutes.
- Add sugar and mirin. Simmer 3-4 minuts and then add soy sauce.

Hitomi encourages to take the extra step to make our creations beautiful. We cut into the sides of the lotus root to make them look like flowers.

I won't kid you. What you see here requires lots of cutting, lots of pots, lots of watching and lots of time. No wonder this is typically done just once a year. But don't be afraid to prepare one vegetable. The depth of flavor is worth it.

(These recipes were submitted to Blazing Hot Wok's monthly regional recipe roundup. The Japanese event is being hosted by Wandering Chopsticks.)

Incredible Inedbile - Homemade Playdough

Away from the maddening wedding crowd: All ages, from 18-months to 13 years, have fun at the playdough table. (Photo by Skye)

A few weeks ago, I hosted a small wedding ceremony and reception at our home for my brother and his bride. My job, big brother said, was to "just show up," and, in theory, I could have done just that. After all, the wedding coordinator, my brother and his bride had taken care of the the caterer, cake, flowers, music, photographer and the dozens of other details that go into pulling off a wedding.

But I wasn't content to loan the house and garden and "just show up." I wanted to leave my little mark in some other way. A few days before the wedding it hit me. I would create a play station for the five children (and any playful adults) attending the wedding.

On the wedding day, I set up a separate children's table away from the more formal adult setting and threw on a vintage table cloth. My niece helped me make the playdough while I perused two local thrift stores for fun things for shaping or poking into the dough. I hit "play dirt" at our local Altadena shop - for $1.00 I got a bag with dozens of miniature forks, little parasols and clowns. I found a bag of of small plastic animals in my garage and pulled out mini muffin pans, a meat ball maker and plastic cookie cutters from the kitchen stash.

The secret to a great playdough station: things for shaping and things for poking. (Photo by Susan)

Nephew Will shows off his mini fork. (Photo by Skye)

Forget fancy-schmancy tools from the toy store. Just use what's on hand at home. (Photo by Skye)

Playdough
(This is the same recipe that I used when my daughter, now 19, was a tadpole.)
1 cup flour
1/2 cup salt

1 cup water
2 tablespoons oil
2 tablespoons cream of tartar
food coloring

Mix flour, salt and oil, and slowly add the water. Cook over medium heat, stirring until dough becomes stiff. Turn out onto wax paper and let cool. Knead the playdough with your hands until of proper consistency. Add a few drops of food coloring. Store in an airtight container.

Advantages of Homemade Playdough
- It's cheaper to make than to buy.
- All of the ingredients are kitchen staples, so you don't have to run out to the store
- It's less crumbly than the commercial version.
- Children can be involved in the making.
- There's no need to get the right color playdough back into the right color can.
- You can create your own colors and even jazz it up with glitter. (Pink Princess Playdough, anyone?)
- No need to worry about children eating it - the salt will turn them off right away.

Bringin' Home the Bacon, Drowning in Spinach

Who says salads are just for summer? This hearty spinach salad with hard boiled eggs, mushrooms, red onions and bacon hits the spot any time of year.

When I'm rushing about on a day of errands, I sometimes stop for fast food. And there's nothing faster (and healthier) than cruising the salad bars at Whole Foods or Ralph's.

I'm not looking for Mr. Goodbar, just Mr. Good Deal. But buyer beware. The bars charge one flat rate per pound, whether you're filling up on beets or blue cheese, carrots or caviar. Stay clear of the heavy but cheap items like dense, raw veggies. I once paid Whole Foods more than $10 for a very small salad that was heavy on red onions and beets and light on lettuce. Ouch!

Since then I've made a bit of a science of getting the most salad bar bang for the buck. One of the best bets is the crumbled bacon, an easy (and lightweight) way to add pizazz to any salad. As a matter of fact, it's such a good deal that I often purchase a "salad" of nothing but the bacon crumbles from Ralph's.

When you consider that the average price of uncooked bacon is $5.00 per pound and half of that cooks away in grease, Ralph's salad bar bacon crumbles at $5.99 per pound are a steal. A quarter pound is enough to top several big salads and a few bowls of soup.

Best of all, it makes salad making a cinch when the bacon's already fried up and crumbled.

Last week, I was in the mood for a spinach and bacon salad, so I purchased a giant bag from Super King in Altadena. The bag was somewhere between the size of a small pillow and the Island of Guam. And at $3.49, it was about ten times cheaper than the 6 oz. bag for $3.99 I saw at Ralph's.

I made bacon and spinach salad for lunch twice last week. Since the bacon was already cooked and crumbled, all I had to do was boil eggs, slice red onions and mushrooms and whip up a balsamic vinagrette dressing. Lunch was ready in less than 10 minutes. And I think it cost me about a dollar.

Fast Food: Tossed with balsamic vinagrette and served with a side of cruncy bread sticks, this makes an easy, satisfying lunch.

Bacon and Spinach Salad
Fresh spinach
Hard boiled eggs, sliced or chopped
Red onions, sliced
Mushrooms, sliced
Crumbled bacon
Other yummy options: chopped tomato (when in season), peas, blue cheese, chopped avocado

Balsamic Vinagrette Dressing
1/4 cup balsamic vinegar
1/3 cup extra virgin olive oil
squeeze of fresh lemon juice
minced garlic clove
minced shallot
salt and pepper to taste

Put the ingredients into a small jar, shake and store in the fridge for up to two weeks.

In addition to those two spinach salads, I made a big batch of spinach Florentine. I gave away a two-quart bag to a neighbor, and I'm still drowning in spinach. I think I'll try this recipe from Closet Cooking for sauteed chard with raisins and pine nuts. I'll just substitute spinach for the chard and will probably use dried cranberries instead of raisins. And maybe I'll try pecans instead of pine nuts because that's what I have on hand. So much for following the recipe, but I think I'm true to the concept of something bitter, something sweet and something crunchy.

Do you have any other favorite spinach recipes?
Do you have a salad bar strategy?

We have a winner - Wandering Chopsticks

It's a good thing I used the random integer selector on random.com to pick the winner of the copper kettle apple butter from West Virginia. It sure beat writing names on slips of paper and asking my cat to pull one out of a hat.

When the computer program selected #6, Wandering Chopsticks, I thought, "Oh, no. People are going to think this contest is rigged and I'm after the chilli sauce she offered to trade." And a few of you may know that I first discovered Wandering Chopsticks a year ago when I was a three-week guest at Hotel Hope (City of Hope) for a stem cell transplant. WC's blog was a triple E hit with me - it kept me entertained, educated and engaged with food. I spent hours perusing her blog and making lists of foods and restaurants I wanted to try. In the springtime, I had the privilege of meeting her in person during a fruit exchange at my house.

Congratulations to Wandering Chopsticks. I couldn't have picked a better winner if I tried. (But I didn't. Honest.)

150 Year Tradition: Making Apple Butter and a Give Away

A Taste of Autumn - Home Made Apple Butter

Smearing apple butter on a hot buttered biscuit will never be the same for me again.

I always thought that apple butter was just apple sauce with a dash more cinnamon and a little more time on the stove. I had no idea that "a little more time" meant 10 hours of brewing in a 150-year-old copper cauldron.

At least that's how the Allen clan of Sardis, West Virginia, do it. They whip up 150 pints of apple butter every year as a fund raiser for a local church youth group. Three days and dozens of hands go into making a jar of the bread spread. Start with a day of picking local wild apples. Spend another day, slicing, chopping and cooking down the apples. Finish off in the cauldron, where the apples are mixed with sugar and cinnamon oil. That final day stretches from 6 am to 6 pm.

Double, double, toil but no trouble: the 150-year-old copper cauldron was first used by cousin Nathan's great-great grandfather. Now seven generations have stirred the pot.


The key to good apple butter is constant stirring so that the bottom doesn't stick. This year, the Allens retired the original 150-year-old paddle and replaced it with this one, hand crafted by a sixth generationer.


The finished product is scooped into sterilized jars.


Nathan's son Travis (on the right)is the great-great-great grandson of the copper pot's original owner. He and a friend retire the pot until its next 10-hour workout.

Now when I spread some apple butter on my biscuit or toast, I'll think of crisp air, fallen leaves, copper cauldrons, a labor of love and a 150-year tradition.

Leave a comment if you think you deserve to win a pint of home-made apple butter. The winner will be randomly selected.

My brother and I did a taste comparison of the 2007 and 2008 batches. This year's is as complex as a fine wine and a definite winner. You can taste the sweet, tangy and cinnamony hot components in each luscious bite. Now could someone bake me up a batch of biscuits?

Sunday Italian Brunch, The Lazy Woman's Way

The after-brunch cleanup crew discovers the creme fraiche.

I like to think of my approach to having people over as "The Lazy Woman's Guide to Entertaining" (inspired by my friend Judie O'Neill, author of "The Lazy Woman's Guide to Just About Everything.")

The premise of the book (and my entertaining philosophy) is that it's OK to be "lazy" and eliminate or cut corners and and still live a big, luscious life or throw a lavish dinner party.

For example, years ago I spent hours shopping for, preparing and cleaning up after our traditional Christmas dinner of turkey and dressing with all the trimmings. My daughter, the picky eater, would eat a small slice of turkey, a spoonful of mashed potatoes and a slice of jellied cranberry. My husband was finished with his dinner in 20 minutes. I began to resent the low effort to reward ratio (i.e. big effort, little satisfaction).

About seven years ago, I changed the menu for our Christmas dinner to fresh crab from the Fish King in Glendale, Caesar salad and home-made French fries. This new tradition is an easy and lazy alternative that everyone loves. With the lazy approach, my effort goes way down, but my reward sky rockets.

I hosted a brunch for a dozen friends on Sunday and took a similar approach. My goal is to serve food that's beautiful and delicious without spending hours in the kitchen, especially after the guests arrive.

Instead of time in the kitchen, I tend to spend time "hunting and gathering" in the Pasadena area for my favorites that include:
- Cristalino Cava (Spanish sparkling wine) from Cost Plus
- Bellini mix from Cost Plus (I decided the home-made version was too laborious.)
- Prosciutto (for prosciutto and melon) from Porta Via (Jonathan Gold thinks it has the best in LA.)
- Pastries from Federico's Bakery
- Produce from Super King in Altadena
- Three-layer pesto, sun-dried tomatoes and marscapone cheese from Trader Joe's

The main dish was an Italian sausage casserole, a variation on the popular bread-meat-cheese, make-the-night-before brunch dish. I found the original recipe on my recipe, but made some tweaks after "taste driving" the dish for friends a week earlier. I also incorporated some tips from Jo at The Adventures of Kitchen Girl.

Here's the revised recipe:

Ingredients

• 1 pound of sweet Italian sausage (The 1/2 pound in the original recipe was too skimpy.)
  
• 8 green onions, sliced (1 cup)
• 3 zucchini, diced (increased from two in the original)
  
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon pepper
• 1 tsp. dry mustard (Added, per Kitchen Girl's suggestion)
  
• 1 (7-ounce) jar roasted red bell peppers, drained and chopped
• About 5 cups of Italian bread, cut into 1-inch cubes (Reduced from original recipe)
  
• 3 cups (8 ounces) shredded sharp Cheddar cheese
• 8 large eggs (increased from original recipe)
  
• 1 1/2 cups milk
• 1 small block of cream cheese (Added, per Kitchen Girl's suggestion)
  

Preparation

• Remove and discard casings from sausage. Cook sausage in a large skillet, stirring until sausage crumbles and is no longer pink; drain.

• Add green onions and next 3 ingredients to skillet. Sauté 4 minutes or until vegetables are tender. Stir in roasted bell peppers. Drain and cool.

• Mix bread cubes with sausage/vegetable mixture and half of cheese in a large bowl.
  

• In a separate bowl, mix eggs, milk and dry mustard.
  

• Add the egg mixture to the bread and mix thoroughly. (The original recipe says to layer the ingredients and pour the egg mixture on top. This results in uneven coverage. This bowl-mixing method results in a more uniform, moist casserole. Thanks, Jo.)
  

• Spread the mixture into a lightly buttered 13- x 9-inch baking dish. Top with the cream cheese and the other half of the cheese.
  

• Cover and chill 8 hours.

• Bake, covered, at 325° for 1 hour or until bubbly and hot.

I also served an easy caprese salad from a basic recipe from Culinary Cory. The only addition I made was some fresh chevre.

I don't know if it was an act of laziness or graciousness or a little of both, but I failed to take any photos of the food. (Bad food blogger, bad!) I do, however have these "after" photos revealing that everything was consumed.

The remains of the day: Italian sausage casserole and Bellinis

Tiger finishes off the last of the creme fraiche, but passes on the berry.
Only one Florentine cookie and a fourth of a petit four remain.